Jen in Nepal
Jen volunteered with a women's program in Kathmandu, Nepal.
One Massive Experience
After nearly twenty-four hours of flying and feeling completely exhausted, but sprinkled with exhilaration for the start of my Nepali journey, I arrived at the Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, Nepal. Once I picked up my bags, I left the arrivals area to be greeted by a sea of locals either a).trying to carry my bags (in order to make some money), or b). to lure me to their taxi. As long as you are adamant that you do not need help, you will be fine. Just stop, and breathe. One word of advice though, if anyone asks you if this is your first time in Nepal, firmly say no, and move on. After quickly scanning the crowd, I spotted the “ELI Volunteer” sign, and connected with the representative (who was quick to greet me with a “Namaste”). Naturally we bargained with some taxi drivers before our brief journey to Maharaj Gunj, the area where my home stay was located. It was a warm welcome by the family, headed by Scott and Sunita (and their two children) and the other volunteers staying at the home. This was a wonderful start to my stay in Nepal.
Counting Sheep while I Sleep?
I was a bit wary prior to arriving in Nepal, as to what sort of accommodations were provided by my home stay family. First off, if you stay with Scott and Sunita, in their lovely home (combined with their office), consider yourself very lucky. There are three spacious volunteer rooms. Each room is equipped with three beds and, if you are lucky, even a table (in one of the rooms). There are two bathrooms as well, with fully functioning showers (which is a bonus, even if the water is cold). The view of the city from the rooftop of the house is spectacular during the day, and the stars are a beautiful sight at night, if you want to take a break to contemplate. You will realize that the Nepali blanket, which each bed is equipped with, will come in handy during the cold evenings. Nepali homes are not heated, and it is usually cooler inside than it is outside. Some nights I even wore a toque (a Canadian term for “winter hat”) and Nepali wool socks, as the air becomes quite cold and the rooms can become even colder during the course of the evening. Overall, I can’t complain as I was just happy to have a bed to sleep in at night, and a comfy one at that.
Oranges by the bucketful
This was a sight that I encountered on a daily basis during my walk to work in Chabahil. Fruit and vegetable stands are set up everywhere and often you will spot men walking around with a diversity of fruit strapped to the back of their bicycle. I would often purchase these items with little bargaining skills. For instance, two kilograms of oranges cost a minimal price of fifty Nepali Rupees. What a bargain!
The Diversity of Food
The Nepali diet consists of heaps of bhat (rice) and dahl (which are lentils). Their main dietary foundation is carbohydrates, and since rice is inexpensive and readily available within Nepal, most people eat it at least twice a day. It is custonary to have only two meals, breakfast and dinner, every day. I always made sure to have three meals, as that is what I was accustomed to and most of my co-workers joined me in this venture during my stay. Within the Hindu religion (as 80 percent of Nepali citizens practice Hinduism) the cow is considered sacred. Therefore, fish and chicken are the main choices for the meat-eating population. The meat is often displayed in the butcher shops, markets, and along the roadside (as pictured here in Gaushala).
A Buddhist Temple
After running around town with Sunita, my home stay mother and some other volunteers, we happened to come across this beautiful Buddhist temple. The temple revealed elaborate hand-painted walls, and vibrant colours to awaken the senses of even the youngest mortal worshiper that visits its grounds. We were lucky onlookers, as the worshipers invited us to “tour” the temple and take some pictures. The view from atop the temple was absolutely stunning.
Turning the Prayer Wheels
The prayer wheels are an essential feature at all Buddhist temples, as they bring the mortal worshipper to a meditative state, in order to become closer to the divine. The prayer wheels are carved metal cylinders which contain rolls of paper wrapped around an axis, on which holy mantras are composed on.
Significance of Prayer flags?
Throughout the Kathmandu Valley, you will see many flags which adorn homes, temples, and shops. You can even purchase these Buddhist prayer flags in Thamel (the tourist “hot-spot” where you can shop til you drop and eat any sort of cuisine you wish). The prayer flags serves not only as a blessing, but also are thought to bring the devout closer to the divine when practicing meditation.
The Tuk-tuk
This is a picture of the local Kathmandu tuk-tuk, which is always a cheaper option than a taxi cab. From our home stay to Thamel, a taxi cab would cost around $150 Nepali Rupees, but the tuk-tuk would only cost around $13 Nepali Rupees – definitely a noticeable price difference. If you are not concerned with saving a buck, it is still worth going on one just for the experience alone. It is a three-wheeled wonder!
The Vibrant Colours of Thamel
Thamel is the tourist district of Kathmandu, Nepal, where you can spend hours browsing and bargaining in the vibrant shops. One thing to note is the intricately woven fabrics and various hand-painted decorations. I spent quite a bit of time there, and without fail, each visit was fulfilled with new sights and smells. It is “the” trekker’s hub, and most shop keepers will assume you are a part of a trek, but once you mention that you are a volunteer, a newfound friendship is formed. More than once I was offered tea by the shop keepers, as the bargaining process formulated into more of a social gathering.
Survival of the Fittest
I would often pass various animals on the main “Ring road” eating the remnants of garbage scattered in the ditches. Often the garbage would be collected and usually dumped by or into the river. After becoming accustomed to these sights and smells, I decided to take a picture because no one back in Canada would have believed me otherwise.
The Office
This is the actual building where I worked. Upon first construction of this organization, the building was only one level, but over the years expansion occurred and two more floors were added. The thirty-five minute walk to work was my highlight each morning and night, as I passed so many diverse faces and indulged in many new smells and sights that I might otherwise have bypassed if I had taken a taxi or bus.
Office Amenities
The Chabahil office is located in a bustling neighbourhood. I shared my office with another intern from Finland. We shared one old computer (with internet) and reports compiled by the organization and their partners in the office library. Make sure to pack warm socks and lots of layers, as the office is usually frigid mid-day! Therefore, you may be warm walking to work, but guaranteed that after a half hour of working away at the office, you will be bundling up.
Drawing at the D.I.C.
I would work Monday to Thursday at the Chabahil – CWISH head office working on research and writing various reports, but on Fridays I was designated to teach English to women and children of various ages who could not afford to attend school. The Drop In Centre (D.I.C.) was located about fifteen minutes from my home stay. It always amazed me that these children could colour for hours with pure delight and were eager to demand more homework after each lesson.
Boy with the Cotton Candy
I captured this picture at Durbar Square. This one boy, about ten years of age, was selling cotton candy to the various tourists that visit this part of Kathmandu on a daily basis. It is most likely one means of livelihood for his family’s income. Most children in Canada are so completely sheltered in comparison.
Durbar Square
I visited Durbar Square in Kathmandu with another volunteer one afternoon. It is helpful to note that in order to enter this historical site, you must pay 200 Nepali Rupees. The entire square was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Monument. You can also visit the Kumari Devi (living goddess) at the Kumari Bahal in the square. Although you cannot take pictures of her, you may be lucky (as I was) to see her appear from her window. If you are a practicing Hindu, you may also go into the Kumari Bahal and pray to her.
A Blessing
After three weeks in Nepal, I finally ventured out to one of the greatest Buddhist temples in Nepal, Swayambhunath, otherwise known as the “Monkey temple”. This picture, of my home stay mother’s niece (and whom I referred to as my “sister”), was taken inside a taxi after we received a tika (blessing) on our foreheads.
Visit to Swayambhunath
This was one of my favourite lookout spots of Kathmandu – Swayambhunath. It is appropriate named “Monkey temple” as there are literally hundreds of them that guard the surroundings. There is admission to enter the site, but it is next to nothing, as you get to see and experience so much culture and history conglomerated in one place.
Nagarkot
Since I only had the weekends off to explore, I decided to do a day-trek with another volunteer one weekend. We took a local bus to Nagarkot. The bus was packed with lots of people, rice and chickens (yes, live chickens). As many people suggested, we hiked back. The air was fresh, the mountains crisp and we didn’t have to struggle because we were hiking downhill.
The Drop-In-Centre
I would often conduct my lessons sitting on the ground, or standing, as there was an absence of tables and chairs. It was possibly the first day that this took me by surprise, but after that it became normal, and I wondered why anyone would need a desk. These are a few of the women that I taught basic English to on Friday afternoons.
Never to be forgotten
On my last day, I actually spent it at the Drop-In-Centre with the women and children that I had grown fondly attached to. As they asked for my “autograph”, and wrote me poems to say goodbye, I took a moment to take this whole journey in. The children and women repeatedly stated a phrase that will always encircle my heart; “Please never forget me, please”. After meeting and experiencing such beautiful people, how could I ever forget them? To me this was never a question.
